Water-based paints are a lot more user-friendly than oil-based paints because they are almost odorless and they dry quickly (usually within 2 hours), allowing for multiple applications in one day. This is especially true when applying the base coats for your decorative paint technique. Water-based paints are easy to clean up with soap and water. They are healthier for painters more than solvent-based products because they do not release harmful toxins into the air and enter into painter's skin while painters are using them. There are many parts of the country that are now restricting the use of solvent-based paints.
Most of the time painters should use a low luster or semi –gloss latex or 100 percent acrylic paint as your base coat. A good quality paint will make a difference in how long your glazes will stay open -100 percent acrylic paints seems to work better as base coats because they do not have fillers, clay or silica in them which ultimately affect your open time. The sheen of the paint will also affect your open time. One word of caution: allow your base coat to dry twenty-four to forty-eight hours before glazing on them. This will allow the longest open time for your glazes, because the base coat has dried firmer and the glaze will not bite into it as it would on a softer paint film that is still fresh. Painter can certainly glaze on a dried film of fresh paint but the glaze sinks in more. It is harder to manipulate, and you may create the dreaded “lap line”
Every professional painter should choose a degree of paint sheen. Paint that has no sheen is labeled a s a flat or matte finish. Paint that has a slight sheen is calls satin or low luster or eggshell. Higher sheens are known as semi-gloss and high-gloss. All paints start out as a high-glass sheen and flattening agents are added to progressively lower the sheen to the desired level and all major paint stores will have a chart to help painters determine the sheen. Generally, the higher the paint sheen, the higher the durability and washability of the surface. It is also generally true the higher the paint sheen, the longer your open time for glazes. Many negative glazing treatments cannot be done on a flat flat sheen and certainly should not be tried by a Rohy’s Contracting painters. Flat-sheened surfaces do not clean as well as those painted with a higher- sheen paint. The negative side of using higher glass paint is that it magnifies all surface defects, such as nail pops, bad tape joints, lamps, dents and undulations. Flat paints hide flaws better than higher –sheened paints. For good washability, I recommend using a low—luster, stain or eggshell sheen on your walls. These will not magnify defects as much as a high-glass sheen but they’ll still clean up very well. For additional protection, you can also clear coat6 your surface with a clear sealer.
Most water- based glaze finishes, once they are fully cured (thirty days), are washable and are as durable as woodwork trim paint. If you want extra protection on a water-based finish, you can use either oil or water based sealers. The sealers come in a variety of sheens-flat, low – luster, semi-gloss and high –gloss. All water-based sealers are like paints in that the higher the sheen, the less flattening agents are in them. The more flattening agents there are, the milkier the paint film. All water-based sealers will create a slight bluish haze over darker colors which is more noticeable with lower sheen. This bulish haze is often not noticed on mid to light colors. Be careful to use your sealers on warm, dry days. Coolness and higher humidity trap moisture under your sealer and cause even more hazing and irregular sheen problems. Rohy’s contracting services very seldom seal the walls because they are usually durable enough after they cure for thirty days.